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The car. Runs like shit it becuse you have oring in the distirberatsor it coming in oil there

Great video. Where did you get the spring kit? Do you know where to get the o-rings / seals? Thanks

Did you test your oil pressure on the feed line before driving it? I crank mine with the fuel off, to check for oil out the feed line before turning the fuel on. But I can’t seem to get oil pushing out. It will drip out, but not push out.

My friend m112 won't start with the oil filler cap on ,take cap off car starts ,put it on car shuts off .

I know this video is old but do you know where the rebuild kit came from? I need the exact same kit.

The spec on my 2000 SL500 is 4 NM for the small PCV bolts and 8 NM for the other valve cover bolts.

Thanks for your time and detail in this video. One of the better posts I have seen, can't believe there are not more views! A parts list, products you use and tools - added to the "MORE"/note area would be a bonus, As an aside, I watched your gender reveal clip (sweet) and thought the confetti was blue but you said girl. What did you get? Thanks again and best wishes, be well.

Love the video! Has helped me out a lot. Thank you!!!

I have a question. So that whole plunger that you said works when the Bowden cable is engaged. Does that plunger ave any other purpose

Hi at 34.50 on the video the capsule with the spring inside, do you know where I can buy the capsule?

Hi I have the 722.3 petrol 90 300se. Can I replace the original 2 springs in the k2 with the pink spring

Hi do the 2 plastic bits on either end of the k1 accumulator spring at 30.50 have to clip together when compressed

My transmission shifts fine except in two scenarios. When I'm just idling with no gas pedal through a parking lot and when the car eventually speeds up on hits own to shift into second it thuds into gear and almost breaks my neck. The other time it does it is when you're going 50mph, slow down for a turn at a stoplight while rolling, take the turn, and then when accelerating moderately after straightening out the turn, again BAM slams as it does a downshift. Any ideas?

perfect video soo usefull

اين يقع صمام PCV هل هو ذو الخراطيم المزدوجه الذي وضعت عليه مادة التشحيم السيلكون ... ارجو الرد

This is a great resource. Thank you. Do you have any insight why, after a seals, frictions and bands rebuild, the vehicle will not start out in selector D or 3, but will engage properly in selector 2, then manual shift to selector 3 or D will get the 3, 4 gears, which will shift at proper speed/rpm and with good feel.

What was the torque spec for the shaft nut for the impeller wheels? There was no part 14 video with torquing the nut on the center shaft? Good tutorial, great info. Thank you

Thank you for doing such a detailed explanation. I'm about to do this to my 240D, then on my 300D.

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Thanks for the great video! Just a heads up, at 04:30 you indicate that a check ball shouldn't be in that little depression. On my 722.315 (82' 300D), and all documentation for the 722.3 and 722.4 indicates there is indeed a ball there. Just a heads up for anyone else, there are little differences to be aware of.

Hii how are you.ihave w126 300se 1988 and i have 1 problem.the revers gear are kicking.not slepping.wen i take the gear (R) the car is kicking.tnx😀

Replacing delivery valves solved my shaky idle too.W124 300D Turbo 91 year. The car runs great at speed and at higher revs but when idling there was late injection on one or two cylinders and white smoke from the exhaust. Thank you for the advice!

I have a 722.3 that was working fine until it got coolant in it from the radiator due to a failed oil cooler. I flushed the fluid twice and and new filter but now it will not shift out of first gear. Pan was clean other than pink fluid. What could have been damaged?

Nice video. Just finished cleaning the valve body and replace the K1 sensor as mine does not click as it suppose too. The car shift very well in all gears, 1 problem is when ever i shift from P or N to R or D i feel a jerk reverse and forward respectively. I pressed the brake pedal as how i normally would in any automatic car. Do you have any ideas what the cause might be? Thanks.

How were u able to determine the bad injector

So you went with a bk2 to a bk1 engine

How to locate if your valve is worn?? Do you have some advice ?

That ain't nothing my truck has more blow by and sounds and runs great 👌

My 95 7.3 powerstroke has been doing the same what’s the fix for it?

Sounds damn good and close

Hey its easy to change it those things ?!

I CAN TELL YOU THAT YOUR VB KIT IS ABSOLUT BSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!! IF YOU WORKING ON A DIESEL 722,315 OR 722,303 YOU HAVE TO REPLACE KI ACC AND K2 ACC AND B1 ACC AND HAVE TO AJUST YOUR BI BAND ACORDINGLY TO MAX OF 1.2 MM TRAVEL AND YOU VACCUM HAVE TO BE PERFECT DROPPING AND RISING!!! NEED THE PART NO JUST ASK!!!

What are you spraying on The breather rubber tubes during the connection process?

You missed a step: put a rag or cardboard over that big hole into the timing chain bay on the driver side breather cover. If you drop a screw down that hole, you will spend up to $6K to retrieve that screw. Due to the tight space, you wont be able to see the screw with you LED camera; the screw is made of aluminum so a magnet wont help you. IF this happens to you, you have to remove the oil pan to find the screw. the oil pan in a V6 112 engine is blocked by sub frame so you have to move that out of the way to get the oil pan off.. Also the oil pan doesn't have a gasket, you have to use silicone to make a gasket. The long story short to save yourself immense grief, put a rag and plug up that hole tightly so you can have greater success to replace those leaky valve cover gaskets and to reseal those leaky breather covers.

My was vibrating and it turn out to be loose injector lines

What was your process for cleaning the valve covers? What did you use and how long did you let it dry before reinstall?

I have a w140 600sel 1992 Shifts are late reach till 3000 rpm to shift I replaced another valve body and after fixing start the car no reverse no D nothing the car doesn’t move could you please help me fix this issue I rebuild the transmission clutches and seals but this problem occur these days

Next time record so we can hear

Hi I liked your video and I have two questions: 1:does the w220 V8 have a PCV VALVE? WHERE IS IT AT IF YES 2:where is the location of the IAT SENSOR ON THE S500W220

I overheated my 7.3 IDI this weekend pulling camper up hill. Now it has nasty shake at idle. Plenty of power. No prob towing at 70mph. Any way to check injectors?

I was gonna say bad flywheel or clutch until you started backing up 🤣

Holy cow that valve train is sparkling. Doing the M112 on a passed down to me CLK and it's wholly carboned up. PCV covers were 98% packed full of sludge; not just the vent hole lol

Superb video! I'm doing this job right now. Can't remove the last one - K1 Accumulator Control Valve (aluminum piston right at the orifice and doesn't move out, only goes in). While removing these plungers and pistons I noticed that some move really hard (perhaps my tranny is in awful condition due to unprecedented buildup of friction material). I think I might need to do slight honing of the aluminum pistons to have a smother travel. I mean it really gives me a sense that they might stuck during operation, which in it's own turn will cause slip/flare. And I also think it is worth to do so because i scratch them while manipulating on removing. What do you think? P.S. Forgot to mention: My valve assembly doesn't have the followings: 1) Primary Check Valve (main valve body); and 2) Secondary Pump Shift Valve; 3) Check Valve on small valve body Is this just a variation or perhaps this transmission was previously rebuilt with mistakes?

Finally a video that shows me that angle showing the hose setup in the back of the hood area near the throttle body. Annoying! Thank you for putting this together, it's not easy recording and doing this at the same time

got a 2013 3.8L and its going thru half a quart of oil every 1K miles. mechanic found no leaks. nothing coming out of exhaust. Runs fine. Oil just disappearing. Have run synthetic entire time. Has 110 k miles and purrs like a kitten. But that will end when it runs dry just once. Thinking maybe a cylinder compression test. I dont know.

how did you clean that up around the valve case? Mine is so dirty, what is everyone using????

hello, I had a 722.3 transmission overhaul but it did not work I only have first gear and rear, mechanic claims I need another valve body, he said the valves are sticking inside, he frees it but they stick again after transmission heat up and stay stuck until you open the valve body again to frees it.. he tried sand it a little bit but no luck. he said seems like the heat deforms the valve body unit or the valves material, does it make sense? is it possible to recover this valve body or I really need another one ? and do you have a theory to why is this happened ? thank you !!!! greetings from brazil

I had a '91 Ford with this engine and I lost part of my life d****** around with injectors and cracking lines and listening to where's the skip does it have a skip exhaust going blah blah blah intake going woop woop woop engine running rough running smooth drove me nuts I don't have the truck anymore but I miss it.

My opinion it is best to remove the valve cover from the engine ,,then remove the breather cover using a suitable piece of wood or large screwdrivers to carefully and gradually prise the cover off.

I watched this to find out how to get the pcv cover off more easily. Mallet and block of wood worked a treat! Trans dipstick is a pain, just bend it out of the way and bend it back after cover is on. As some others said too, easy to attach/silicon pcv on on a bench. Great video! Love the detail!